There is no way how to check how many computers are behind NAT device.
To check what MAC addresses are used on the line between your and customer's router simply type "show ip arp". But there will be only MAC addresses which are on segments directly connected to your router.
By sniffing traffic on the line you can only guess how many computers are behind NAT device. For example count simulateous connections from NAT device to internet with destination port 80. Unfortunetaly it is very inaccurate...